A Day Walking Along the Fortress Wall: A Simple Record of My Time in Suwon
Though over a million people live here, time seems to flow slowly beneath the ancient wallsβthis is the true face of Suwon.
Let Me Introduce This City
Although it's a massive city with a population of over 1.2 million, standing in the center of Suwon brings a cozy fortress wall into view instead of a giant forest of buildings. It's a place where the convenience of a high-tech city blends mysteriously with the atmosphere of the Joseon Dynasty. For those looking to take a light weekend trip to the outskirts and enjoy delicious food amidst serene scenery, there is no better choice than this.
The Path This City Has Walked
Suwon is a city that fully embodies the dreams of King Jeongjo, the 22nd ruler of the Joseon Dynasty. He built a new city when moving his father Crown Prince Sado's tomb here, which is today's Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. It's a very famous story that the Silhak (Practical Learning) scholar Jeong Yak-yong invented the Geojaunggi (crane) to use in building the fortress walls. Walking through every alley, you can feel Jeongjo's pioneering vision of creating a planned city where commerce and agriculture harmonized together, rather than a mere defensive fortress wall.
Must-Visit Places
Suwon's charm undoubtedly lies in the fortress wall path following Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. Not only does every photo turn out to be a masterpiece, but it also shows completely different scenery in each season. Walking along the fortress wall, you will encounter magnificent scenes where the sentiment of old Joseon and the appearance of a modern city are captured all at once.
The flower of Joseon fortress architecture. The walking trail along the fortress wall is exceptionally well-maintained, making it the best place to walk while watching the sunset.
A temporary palace where King Jeongjo stayed. It's a lot of fun to watch the traditional martial arts performances held daily in the wide plaza.
Charming murals, unique independent bookstores, and novelty shops are hidden in every alleyway of the low-rise residential area, making it full of fun things to explore.
Great to visit with children, as you can easily understand the model of the Geojaunggi used to build Suwon Hwaseong Fortress and the architectural process of the time at a glance.
The pavilion reflected in the pond is a spectacle. You can fully enjoy leisure among locals sitting on the lawn enjoying a picnic.
A huge traditional market where Jidong Market, Paldalmun Market, and others gather. It is filled with the lively atmosphere and savory smells of an old-style market.
Nature Surrounding the City
Having such expansive lakes and forests in the middle of the city center is a great blessing for Suwon. Gwanggyo Lake Park, tucked away like a hidden gem among buildings, is great for walks day and night, and the foothills of Paldal Mountain are just the right course for a light breath of fresh air.
Gwanggyo Lake Park (κ΄κ΅νΈμ곡μ)
The largest urban lake park in the country, filled with couples walking along the trails with brilliant night views when night falls.
Paldal Mountain (νλ¬μ°)
A modestly rising mountain on the southwest side of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. With a gentle slope, anyone can easily climb it and look down over downtown Suwon.
The Taste and Style of This City
When you think of Suwon, Wang-galbi (king ribs) and Tongdak (whole fried chicken) naturally come to mind first! Suwon Chicken Street, where savory oil scents vibrate along old market alleys, is like a familiar stop that completely washes away the fatigue of travel. Moreover, during the Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival held every autumn, a massive parade recreating the royal processions of the Joseon Dynasty takes place, filling the entire city with the excitement of a festival.
Local-Recommended Eateries
Rather than places where only tourists wait in line, we've selected spots where you can truly experience the genuine taste of Suwon. From freshly fried, crispy whole chicken to savory sundae-gukbap (blood sausage soup with rice), these are surefire choices to fill your stomach.
The veteran landlord of Suwon Chicken Street. Fried in a traditional cauldron, the skin is crispy, and they serve complimentary fried chicken gizzards with an old-school chicken vibe.
A sundae-gukbap restaurant boasting a rich, deep broth without any gamey odor. It's a true local eatery frequently visited by neighborhood elders.
A vintage rooftop cafe in the alleys of Haenggung-dong. The latte tasted while heading up to the rooftop and looking out at the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress wall is amazing.
Good to Know Before Your Trip
Suwon is highly accessible, reachable within an hour from Seoul by subway (Line 1, Suin-Bundang Line). Major tourist attractions are clustered around Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, allowing you to explore thoroughly in a single day using public transportation or your own sturdy two legs. Weekend parking in Haenggung-dong can be quite complicated, so using public transportation is strongly recommended!
An essential item for using Suwon city buses and subways
Booking train tickets heading to Suwon Station
Checking routes using Suwon Bus Terminal
Official site for Suwon cultural tourism information
Guide to events and municipal news